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Austin Beeman

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Fonseca Bin 27 Port: Tasting with 6th Generation Winemaker David Guimaraens and Austin Beeman

January 8, 2024

A conversation between David Guimaraens and Austin Beeman about Fonseca Bin 27, a young and fruity port wine.

Guimaraens describes the wine as full-bodied and rich, with a concentration of black currant fruit. He explains that the grapes used to make the port come from the Douro Valley, which has a hot mountain climate that contributes to the intensity of the fruit. The wine has plenty of tannins, making it a good pairing with chocolate desserts.

Beeman comments on the aroma of cherries and raspberries, and Guimaraens attributes this to the grape varieties used in port production. They both agree that the wine is pure, bright, and joyful in its fruitiness. Guimaraens describes Fonseca as a house known for its bubbly, rich, and intense wines, and Bin 27 is no exception.

They discuss how the winemaking process is crucial in preserving the fruitiness of the wine while extracting color and structure.

Overall, they find the wine to be enjoyable and fun.

THIS IS BONUS CONTENT RELATED TO EPISODE 96 OF UNDERSTANDING WINE WITH AUSTIN BEEMAN

SPECIAL THANKS:

  • THE FLADGATE PARTNERSHIP - FONSECA - WOW PORTO

    • Adrian Bridge

    • David Guimaraens

    • Maria Delamain

    • Ana Margarida Morgado

    • Jose Sa

  • WAGSTAFF MARKETING

    • Tori Katz

    • Kyrsten Cazas

    • Charisse Smalls

    • Amanda Hathaway

  • SOMMSPIRATIONS

    • Brianne Cohen


TRANSCRIPT:

Note: Transcript was created by a third party service and I’ve endeavored to clean up the spelling of ‘wine words’ and non-english words. Any persistent errors are mine alone.

Or, watch the video. It is awesome.

David Guimaraens:

So we're now tasting Fonseca Bin 27, the Fonseca Bin 27, and the Fonseca Bin 27 is a full-bodied, rich, fruity port. It is young, so we're talking about a two-and-a-half year old port where you get the great expression of the youth, of the grape, this black current fruit, and it's exactly the Douro Valley, this region of hot mountain climate, which produces the grapes with a concentration and the richness to get all of this intensity of fruit but also then on the palette, you got the richness and the weight on the palate. And being a young port, it still has plenty of tannin, and it is that tannin, that fruit, which makes it combine so well anything which is chocolate. You can imagine any chocolate desserts, a chocolate mousse, a chocolate cake. It's very intense, but then the fruitiness and the tannin in Bin 27 balances and cleanses your palate; just make you want to go back for another bite.

Austin Beeman:

It smells like when you have a lot of cherries and raspberries and things and you left them out on the counter and they're warming in the sun. Those aromas coming off that, that almost on the decadent edge of fruit sweetness is coming through on the nose so much.

David Guimaraens:

And that's exactly what the extraordinary characteristics of Douro Valley, that mixture of grape varieties that we use to make port, it brings out all of these different fruit flavors and richness of fruit.

Austin Beeman:

Now, what I've always liked about that is how pure and bright and joyful the quality of the fruit is on that.

David Guimaraens:

Yeah.

Austin Beeman:

It's dark and it's rich but it's warm and happy, and it's not serious. Really just warm and happy as a flavor, so I love it.

David Guimaraens:

And Fonseca's very characterized as a house, which is very bubbly, rich and intense and fun, and Bin 27 is that.

Austin Beeman:

Yes.

David Guimaraens:

You've got to have that precision, that quality, but you want it to be out there in your face rich, and that's what Bin 27 is about and that's why you'll get most restaurants in the North America have got Fonseca Bin 27 to be served by the glass at the end of the meal, and what a great way to accompany your dessert or your cheese.

Austin Beeman:

Mm-hmm. Yeah. I completely agree. That's very, very nice.

David Guimaraens:

But yes, this freshness of fruit, look, to do that, it's all about having good quality grapes to work with. And then as a winemaker, it's taking really good grapes, really rich, really concentrated, then using a wine-making technique or fermentation to bring out all of that structure, but not losing your fruit.

Austin Beeman:

Yeah.

David Guimaraens:

And that is more of a challenge than people think because extracting color from your grapes is not an easy thing in a fermentation, and if you overwork it, then you'll extract the color but you lose your freshness, and that's why the fermentation method that I develop in my lifetime, of assimilating the foot treading with these mechanical treaders, was so important to ensure the quality of ports like Bin 27.

Austin Beeman:

Yeah. Gorgeous. Very fun.


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EQUIPMENT:

Main Camera: Canon R8

2nd Camera: DJi Pocket 2

Mic:  Audio Technica AT875R

Travel Bag: Peak Design Travel Line Backpack 45L.

Camera Bag:  Peak Design Everyday Messenger Bag.

Music Licensed from Epidemic Sound.


FTC Compliance: I have no professional relationship with Fonseca or the Fladgate Partnership other than selling their wines during my time as a retail buyer. This is not sponsored. See more.

Comment

Fonseca 1985 Vintage Port: Tasting with 6th Generation Winemaker David Guimaraens and Austin Beeman

January 2, 2024

David Guimaraens, the 6th generation winemaker, discusses his pride in a vintage port made by his father, the Fonseca 1985.

He emphasizes the pleasure of drinking a mature vintage port and the complexity it offers. Guimaraens also mentions the cult following of the Fonseca 1985 and its ability to age well.

He and Austin Beeman, the interviewer, discuss the personal and historical significance of tasting and experiencing wines from different years.

Guimaraens reflects on his own career and the legacy he hopes to leave behind and they conclude by toasting to the complexity and enjoyment of fine wines.

THIS IS BONUS CONTENT RELATED TO EPISODE 96 OF UNDERSTANDING WINE WITH AUSTIN BEEMAN

SPECIAL THANKS:

  • THE FLADGATE PARTNERSHIP - FONSECA - WOW PORTO

    • Adrian Bridge

    • David Guimaraens

    • Maria Delamain

    • Ana Margarida Morgado

    • Jose Sa

  • WAGSTAFF MARKETING

    • Tori Katz

    • Kyrsten Cazas

    • Charisse Smalls

    • Amanda Hathaway

  • SOMMSPIRATIONS

    • Brianne Cohen


TRANSCRIPT:

Note: Transcript was created by a third party service and I’ve endeavored to clean up the spelling of ‘wine words’ and non-english words. Any persistent errors are mine alone.

Or, watch the video. It is awesome.

David Guimaraens:

Cheers. We're talking about a port that I had nothing to do with. My father made this port. But it's a port that I'm very proud of and it's a port, which for me is also what drives what I do. Because at the end of the day, when I bottle a vintage port like the '17, I want my son or my grandson to be proud of what I did. This port was made by my father, the Fonseca 1985. It is now reaching or getting close to the ripe age of 40 years. And it is a wonderful moment and a great example of what a mature vintage port is.

And if you have a number of bottles in your cellar, if you open this bottle, you'll have the pleasures of the incredible complexity. Look at this, all this bottle maturity, this marzipan, the spiciness that you get, which is what nearly 40 years in the bottle will give you. But it has still got so much fruit, so much intensity that if you have a case and you drink a few bottles for yourself and you leave some for your son, then you'll be very happy with that as well. He'll be even happier.

Austin Beeman:

Yeah. There's something about the time travel that many great wines can do, but vintage port can do with ease.

David Guimaraens:

For those who know what they're doing. And I stress that because that's very important. Fonseca 1985 has got a cult following. It is considered the greatest of the '85s. I look at it and see the youth that it still has, now it's 38 years old, and it's still so youthful. But look at this extraordinary... how much is going on in your palate when you're drinking this, how much you discover. You said you'd had an '85 before. How long ago was that?

Austin Beeman:

It was, I want to say in the early 2000s, 2004 I think.

David Guimaraens:

Yeah. And look at it now. Look at how much more it has gained. But then you drink and say, "Well, okay, it's incredible, but it will be even better in another 20 years time than it is today."

Austin Beeman:

Yeah. And you were talking about how this is the wine that your father made and the ability of when you see that '85, when you taste an '85, you're thinking about, "Okay, who was I when this was made? Who was I when I first had it?" I recently had an opportunity to taste a wine from Alsace when Alsace was German in the middle of the Second World War. And it started a conversation about what my grandfather was doing during the war at that time and thinking about, "Okay, '85," and for me, I was seven years old when this wine was being harvested and what the world was like and all those things coupled with the prettiness of the fruit. You go from this wine and the fruit's all there, but then you come back to the Bin 27 prettiness, but at a completely different level.

David Guimaraens:

What you're saying is exactly what the world of fine wine is about. You're talking about what the world of the wine lover is about. Every bottle of vintage port has got a story to tell. 1985, you were seven years old. 1985, I was 19 years old. My father gave me a one-way ticket to Australia because he wanted to show me the new world. I ended up studying in Australia for five years, study and working. So I was in Australia for five years and 1985 was a year which produced these ports, which the extraordinary concentration. Every bottle of vintage port has got a story to tell and what happened. And in the same way that you can explore a region and different producers by the different wines that you taste, you can also travel the world by drinking fine wine from different countries. And that is what the world of fine wine is about.

That's why today there have never been so many people interested in quality wine. Because if you have that interest, and this is only interesting if you have that interest. Wine is about people who like it, it's not about imposing it on people, but if you have that interest, there is so much to discover in fine wine. And that's why vintage port is considered as one of the greatest wines in the world alongside the great Burgundy's, the great Bordeaux's. Because to do it, to do it well, you really need to know what you're doing. But when it is good, it is extraordinary. So, cheers.

Austin Beeman:

Cheers. It's extraordinary.

David Guimaraens:

It's been a pleasure. And cheers to the camera who's done all the hard work. Isn't the complexity of this just something?

Austin Beeman:

Wow, this is so good. Just in this limited amount of time, every sip has been radically different than the one before.

David Guimaraens:

And you see the way the flavors go. If we talk about '13 going on in relation to the '17, but then look what this has in relation to the '13, Patrick, this is what it's about. And I had nothing to do with it. Well, I did help with the harvest.

Austin Beeman:

There you go. There you go. You can take credit.

David Guimaraens:

No, I won't take any credit. I can take credit or criticism for the pause that I've made. I'll credit my father with great pride of the pause that he made.

Austin Beeman:

What was the first vintage you made that you claim?

David Guimaraens:

'94. So I started back home in 1990 and my father retired in '95, so '94 was the first I was fully responsible for. But still today, I always said that if any of the vintage ports I make are as good as the Fonseca '63, then I'm happy with my career. And I think you've got to always look at what you're doing, thinking about what I've had the good fortune to inherit from previous generations, but also to think what am I going to leave for the generations to come? That's the port business. I think when you come to the lodges here, that's what you see here, that's what you sense.

Austin Beeman:

Absolutely.

David Guimaraens:

And this is our life. This is what we are.

Austin Beeman:

Fabulous, man. Cheers. Thank you so much.

David Guimaraens:

Yes. Cheers.


Work With Austin

Send Me an Email

FOLLOW THE WINE ADVENTURE

  • Website:

  • Facebook

  • Instagram:

  • Twitter

EQUIPMENT:

Main Camera: Canon R8

2nd Camera: DJi Pocket 2

Mic:  Audio Technica AT875R

Travel Bag: Peak Design Travel Line Backpack 45L.

Camera Bag:  Peak Design Everyday Messenger Bag.

Music Licensed from Epidemic Sound.


FTC Compliance: I have no professional relationship with Fonseca or the Fladgate Partnership other than selling their wines during my time as a retail buyer. This is not sponsored. See more.

Comment

My 12 Most Memorable Wines of 2023

December 29, 2023

The wine industry has blessed me with ample opportunities for connection. Connection to people, to the produce of this vast world, and to my own history. As a look back on a year of personal and professional change, I am grateful for the abundance in my life and the generosity of the people who make it possible.

Check out the Most Memorable Wines of Past Years

2021, 2020 and 2019.

This list of the 12 most memorable wines of 2023 is not a list of the very best wines, although they are often extraordinary, but of wine experiences.

Without further ado: Here are the Most Memorable Wines of 2023 in order of memorability.

Kopke 1978 Colheita Porto

#1 Most Memorable of 2023.

I began my big Portugal trip with the exhilarating Wine Future Conference in Coimbra. The sessions were wonderful and the conversations with some of the smartest people in the wine business were even better.

But the tastings were legendary. The flagship tasting of the event was a tasting of “Legendary & Historic Madiera & Port by Richard Mayson.” It was almost too decadent and I might have filled this entire post about it, but I’ll settle for a beautifully warming birth year single harvest tawny from Kopke.

Taylor’s 50 Year Old “Golden Age” Tawny Porto

#2 Most Memorable of 2023.

Later that same day (!!!!) our group were guests of Adrian Bridge and The Fladgate Partnership in one of their restaurants on the WOW Porto campus. The law in Portugal had recently changed to allow 50 Year Old Tawnies and we were treated to this exquisite port out of large format.

It was the vinous essence of curling up around a roaring fire with a good book. Fabulous stuff.

Foradori 2001 Granato

#3 Most Memorable of 2023

I had a chance to return to Panama City, Panama with Steve Maher of Cutting Edge Selections. We hauled a few bottles of wine down in our suitcase, including some old stragglers from the depths of the CES Warehouse. We didn’t know if it was going to still be good, but I’m a huge fan of Foradori. As you can see by the numerous videos on this website from the winery.

It was perfect. Full of rich smoke, earth, stone, blood, fire. Something truly special.

Ken Wright Cellars 2012 Pinot Noir “Tanager Vineyard”

#4 Most Memorable of 2023

2023 was the year that I retired from my position as Vice President of Marketing at Cutting Edge Selections. It was after founder Mark Maher’s sudden passing in 2016 that I first joined the management team. This large format bottle was signed by Mark’s friends, family, employees, and customers, at his funeral. It was a wonderful honor to be able to enjoy it during the company party at Cafe Mediterranean in Cincinnati.

Ken Wright’s Pinot Noirs always reward aging and this was no exception.

Chateau Talbot 1986 Saint-Julien

#5 Most Memorable of 2023

The Earle in Ann Arbor, Michigan is a secret gem of a restaurant for wine lovers. It has a fabulous selection of classic mature wines at insanely reasonable prices. A group of friends and I try to rain their cellar every change we get.

This mature Bordeaux is the UR-Bordeaux. I’ve never tasted Left Bank perfection like this with dignity, length, complexity, and a mix of black cherries and graphite.

Kobal Bajta Blaufränkisch Rosé Pet Nat

#6 Most Memorable of 2023

This Pet-Nat from the steep slopes of Haloze, Slovenia is pure hedonistic deliciousness. I poured this every time I had the chance this year - Columbus Ohio Natural Wine Festival & Rosé Partay in Louisville come to mind. It always makes everyone happy.

Once the weather gets warm, I’ll be enjoying this everywhere again!

Hiyu Espina II, Grape, Pear, Plum, Elderberry, Rose Hip, Blackberry Wine

#7 Most Memorable of 2023

More Crazy-Fun Natural Wine! I was a fan of Hiyu wines before Third Coast Soif in Chicago, but tasting all the crazy-beautiful solidified that opinion.

This tastes like homemade fruit wine made by fae creatures that are trying to seduce you to become their monarch. It would work on me.

Clos de la Roilette 2021 Fleurie

#8 Most Memorable of 2023

This was just a shockingly beautiful Beaujolais that was taken out on a beautiful sunny day and every customer bought some. How it is supposed to work

Tomac Amfora Brut Nature

#9 Most Memorable of 2023

Visiting Tomac in Plešivica, Croatia during the 2021 Vinum distributor trip was one of the highlights of the entire week. I immediately started selling the small amount of wine that was available. Unfortunately, the profound Amphora sparkling wine wasn’t one of the options.

You can imagine my pleasure when a friend brought me back a bottle of this rare wine during his trip to Croatia. I enjoyed its offbeat richness with beautiful raw oysters on a friend’s balcony in the spring of 2023

Chateau Gilette 1978 Sauternes

#10 Most Memorable of 2023

I love chasing birth year wines, but I am cursed with a below average vintage. The classic age worthy regions - Bordeaux and Vintage Port - both didn’t perform well in 1978. One can always count on dessert wine and we are living through an era of extreme undervaluing of dessert wine on the secondary market. This wine was picked up for less than it would have cost on release. The wine was beautiful and shared with friends over a nice cheese tray assembled by the world class team at The Rhined in Cincinnati.

Brown Estate 2021 Zinfandel

#11 Most Memorable of 2023

One of the best wine-related moments last year was being able to represent Brown Estate at the first Black Wine Festival in Cincinnati. Brown Estate is the first (and maybe only) black-owned estate winery in the Napa Valley.

The event was very fun, full of energy, and a great experience. I really enjoyed introducing the wines to lots of people and telling the winery story.

Joh. Jos Prum 2001 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese

#12 Most Memorable of 2023

It is hard to think that 22 years from vintage date is still infanticide for a wine, but Prum wines are something else. Delicious, hedonistic, dense, aromatically complex, and still needed a couple more decades in the cellar. Wow!


Disclosure 1: At the time of this writing, I no longer work for the wholesale distributor that represents some of these wines in Ohio and Kentucky, but I did for more than half the year. Neither my representation of these wines or lack thereof, affects this list in any way.

Disclosure 2: The wines on this list were a combination of promotional samples, purchased at discount due to my industry status, tasted as part of wine tastings (some paid and some free,) tasted with friends who purchased them, or purchased by myself at full price. None of this influences my decisions or ranking.

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