Understanding Wine with Austin Beeman

This is the 2nd of two blogs about the new incarnation of Bonny Doon Vineyard. See the other one first at this link.

I don’t think it would be out of place to call the Le Cigare Volant the heart of the Bonny Doon portfolio. These Southern Rhone-style wines bear a label that at first glance is traditionally European. Until you realize that the vineyard is being invaded by a flying ‘cigare’ (Le Cigare Volant in French.) It is an elegant fusion of wackiness and Randall Grahm’s old world reverence.

The story, which can be found on the back of each bottle, related a ‘strange but true’ French law forbidding the landing of UFOs in the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. You really have to read the back of this bottle yourself. I won’t spoil the eloquence of Grahm’s descriptions here.

But how are these wines in the new Bonny Doon incarnation.

Le Cigare Blanc 2007 ‘Beeswax Vineyard.’ $19.99 OH Retail.
The label shows an ultra-specific blend of 64.3% Roussane and 35.7% Grenache. The wine is rich with white-Rhone mouth feel. It is so rich and voluptuous that you wonder why you ever need Chardonnay. This, I’m sure, is Randall Grahm’s intension.

Vin Gris de Cigare 2008 Rose. $15.99 OH Retail.
Americans don’t drink nearly enough dry rose. Too many people think that all rose is the sickly sweet Pink Infidel. This rose, made from the mixture of white and red wines, is refreshing and food friendly and not at all sweet. Delicious and priced right for a summer lunch.

Le Cigare Volant 2005 Red Blend. $29.99 OH Retail.
Le Cigare Volant 2001 Red Blend $29.99 OH Retail.

It was quite the honor to try this mini-vertical of Volant. The 2001 was the oldest wine under screw cap that I’d ever tasted and it was in its prime. It was starting to show the tawny around the rim of older Rhone wines and was filled with an earthy interpretation of Mourvedre on the nose. I’m still not sold on the age ability of screw caps, but this wine makes a good argument.

The 2005 was brighter with Grenache dominating. It also had some extra intensity to the fruit that I interpreted as Syrah influence. Both wines were sophisticated food wines that would have held their own in a blind tasting of CDPs.

In conclusion, the entire Bonny Doon portfolio is holding its place in my book as one of the most exciting vineyards in America, if not the world. I will be very excited to see how what Randall Grahm and Bonny Doon will doon next.